Amber Jewelry Gallery

The History of Amber

Amber, which has been used by artisans for centuries to create unique works of art that survive today as museum pieces, has its origin in the Eocene Epoch. About 45 million years ago, trees that one 19th century botanist called "amber-giving" pines deposited resin in what is now Scandinavia and the Baltic. This resin was carried by waterways to the Baltic coastline, where the largest deposits of amber have been discovered.

At the bottom of the sea over the next 40 million years, this resin was fossilized and became amber. About two million years ago a glacier shifted, which brought the amber to the surface of the earth where it is mined today.

The pine forests depositing the resin that became amber grew in a warm, subtropical climate that was friendly to many plant and animals species. Many of these species were preserved in what we call "inclusions" in amber. "Inclusions" are needles, twigs, leaves, flowers, pollens, seeds, flowers and oak hairs that became trapped and preserved in the resin that became amber millions of years later.

Fossilized amber has also entombed small insects, arachnids, and occasionally other small animals (Fig. 1, 2 to the right). Feathers, hairs, and occasional paw prints reveal additional information about the life forms existing during the Eocene Epoch.

Evidence of amber use by ancient Central and South European cultures dates from the 13th millennium B.C. in the form of amulets used in hunter's magic to ensure safe and prosperous hunting, as well as pendants and beads that demonstrate a decorative use that has survived through modern times. Amber is a mineral of many names, such as jantar, good stone, sacred stone, gold of the north, and Baltic gold. The Roman historian Pliny wrote: "Among luxury goods it is valued so high that an amber human figurine, no matter how small, costs much more than men (slaves) in their prime".

By the Mesolithic period (8300-4500 BC) amber craftsmanship had developed to the point of including small sculptures of animals that have been discovered in Denmark and Poland. By 1700 BC, the trade of decorative amber items had reached as far as the region of the North Pole. A cup found in a burial mound at Hove near Brighton, Great Briton dates from 1200 BC. The grave of Egyptian pharaoh Tutankhamen contained amber relics. Amber necklaces have been recovered from Etruscan graves dating from 500 BC. (Fig. 3).

Fig. 3

Amber was very popular during the Roman Empire, and the "Amber Route" that developed for the amber trade fostered social and economic development in the parts of Europe to which it extended. The most famous expedition of amber occurred during Nero's reign, when a Roman equites sent to the Baltic Coast to acquire amber brought back so much of the gem that an entire stage for gladiator fights was made of amber. Fig. 3 above is a late Bronze Age necklace from a burial place near the Castle Malbork (Fig. 4).

Fig. 4

Amber Production

By the turn of the 11th century, Gdansk had become the center of amber production. Reflecting the introduction of Christianity, amber crosses were popular during this time, as well as necklaces, rings, and pieces for board games.

In 1308, Pomerania and Gdansk were seized by the Teutonic Knights, who employed amber craftsmen to create works of art out of amber that would be sent as official gifts to the royal courts of Europe. Engravings form the 1600's show Balga and Zuvininkai castles (Fig. 5) where the Teutonic Knights stored uncut amber. In the 1500's Duke Albert, the last Grand Master of the Teutonic Order, was commissioning items such as beer-mugs, caskets, mirror frames, chessboards and cutlery to be crafted from amber for use by the court and to be given as official gifts.

Fig. 5

The 17th century is considered the golden age of the amber craft. During this period, distinguished artists created caskets, statues, chandeliers, and furniture laid with gold, silver, and amber for royalty and the wealthy to have in their homes and to give as gifts.

In 1701, the Prussian King Frederick I commissioned Gdansk architect Andreas Schluter and Copenhagen amber artist Gottfried Wolffram to create an entire room of amber for the Berlin Palace (Fig. 6). The room was not completed in Frederick's lifetime and was abandoned by his successor as too expensive. It was acquired in 1716 by the Tsar of Russia as an official gift, and ultimately completed and installed at the summer residence in Tsarskoye Selo. The Amber Room, sometimes regarded as the eighth wonder of the world, survived for over 200 years before disappearing mysteriously at the end of World War II from the castle in Konigsberg where it was being displayed. Luxurious, albeit less grand works of amber during the 18th century included phials, boxes (Fig. 7), jewelry, walking stick handles.

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

In addition to its decorative uses, amber has been used for various medicinal purposes since the Roman Empire, when it was used to treat treating fever and tonsillitis. Copernicus used amber as one of the ingredients of his cordial mixture.

At the turn of the 20th century, one of the most popular types of amber product was the cigarette holder with an amber mouthpiece (Fig. 8). Amber was also used to decorate cigarette and cigar cases as well as dagger handles. Konigsberg was the center of amber craftsmanship for the first half of the 20th century. After World War II however, the state borders changed, cutting Germany off from what had been the main source of rough amber. During the latter half of the 20th century amber craftsmanship has come full circle and once again, Gdansk, Poland is the epicenter for amber art (sugarbowl c. 2002 Fig. 9).

Fig. 8

Fig. 9